Article by Steve Smede
Locally owned and operated by Rob Harding, the Pitmaster BarBQue Company was born out of a two-decade long affinity for one of the nation's most popular cuisines. From his earliest stab at the smoker in Indiana, Harding went on to explore barbecue techniques around the Midwest. The culmination is a tasty menu of ribs, briskets, pulled pork and a growing number of specialty dishes and sides. (Pig candy, anyone?)
We had the chance to observe Harding in the creation of some of his delicious beef brisket. The preparation is surgical in its precision, beginning with a 15-hour marathon session in the smoker out behind the restaurant. Harding peeled open the foil, exposing the tender meat. Some 20-odd delicate slices later, he had the makings of an award-winning dish, just in time for the lunch crowd.
"Barbecue has always been an interest for me, as a hobby," said Harding, who had spent much of his previous work life in health care administration. "I liked to eat it, so I asked a lot of questions, refined what I liked and went after it with lots of trial and error."
As a testament to his dedication to the subject, Harding is a certified judge of the Kansas City BBQ Society, which has provided him several hours of training in judging food. There's a three-fold standard to great barbecue that should be obvious to any serious smoker, he said. "It's all about appearance, taste and tenderness."
Part of it is timing. Much of it, he admits, is the development of the appropriate sauce.
Pitmaster has three proprietary "signature" sauces that make all the difference. They include a competition sauce, an extra-sweet honey bourbon and a honey chipotle mixture with a little more fire in it. Pitmaster uses a local product, Brownings Honey to create their formulas. "The result is sweet as icing," Harding said.
Beyond the full-service establishment on Fremont, Pitmaster also caters to groups of 700-plus. Meaty delicacies range from slow-smoked pork ribs to pulled-pork sandwiches and chicken.
Harding's wife, Lisa, also has a hand in the culinary offerings with her attention to a variety of appetizers, dessert dishes and breads.
Open since April, the establishment safely accommodates 45, plus additional outside seating.
With its 14 employees, Pitmaster keeps Monday-Thursday and Saturday hours of 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Fridays. For more information, visit www.pitmaster-BBQ.com. The restaurant is located at 1305 Fremont Ave.