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Daytrip Discovery: Adventures near the INL Site

History, archaeology and the world’s first electricity-generating nuclear power plant … there’s plenty to see on a daytrip through the Arco Desert

Published in the April 2023 Issue Published online: Apr 11, 2023 Shelly Norman, INL Public Affairs
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In just a few hours from pretty much anywhere in southeast Idaho, you can relive history at Idaho National Laboratory’s Experimental Breeder Reactor I – with a choice of other interesting stops along the way full of interesting and historical facts about INL. The land known by locals as “the Site” is owned by the U.S. Department of Energy.

INL has a rich history. It has been in operation since 1949 and supports DOE’s missions in nuclear and energy research, applied science, and national security.  After World War II, nuclear scientists came to Idaho. Their goal was to build 10 reactors in 15 years – and learn everything there was to know about nuclear energy. Since that time, 52 reactors have been built at INL and four operate today. 

Experimental Breeder Reactor-I: EBR-I is where scientists first created usable amounts of electricity by splitting the atom. They also proved that breeder reactors could create more fuel than they consumed. Now decommissioned and designated a National Historic Landmark in 1965, EBR-I produced sufficient power to illuminate four 200-watt light bulbs on Dec. 20, 1951.

EBR-I is located at mile marker 269. Turn south off Highway 20 and follow the signs to the museum. It is open seven days a week from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. between Memorial Day weekend and Labor Day. And it’s free. Spend an hour or a day.

Before you leave home, download the TravelStorys app to your phone. It will give you an on-demand tour of the Site as you drive across the desert. Because land on the INL is protected, you cannot get up close and personal with the artifacts, but here is a look at a few other stops you can make:

Craters of the Moon: “Weird” is a word commonly used to describe Craters of the Moon. This National Monument and Preserve, located 18 miles southwest of Arco on Highway 20/26/93. The lava flows, tubes and caves are great for hiking and learning about geology. Even Apollo 14’s crew came here in 1969 to prep for their mission.

Idaho Science Center: In 1955, the United States was eager to demonstrate peaceful uses of splitting the atom and Arco became the first city in the world to be lit by atomic power. It is also home to the Idaho Science Center – a quaint museum with atomic memorabilia – and a submarine sail from the decommissioned USS Hawkbill.

Lake Terreton and other landmarks: As you drop over the hill, you can see most of the Site’s 890 square miles. It is ringed by the often snow-capped mountains. Notable landmarks from this vantage point are (to the right) Experimental Breeder Reactor-II with its iconic silver dome, and 20 miles straight ahead is the Advanced Test Reactor. During the last gasp of the ice age, ancient Lake Terreton covered 230,000 acres of what is now mostly agricultural land west of Idaho Falls. Preserved portions of the lakeshore on the desert Site are revealing significant clues about the lives and ways of the earliest Native Americans to occupy southeastern Idaho. (Mile marker 279)

Concrete concussion wall: As you’re driving west, on your right, you can see a power substation. Directly south is a concrete concussion wall left from the 1940s when World War II battle guns from the Pacific were rebored in Pocatello, then test-fired at the Naval Proving Ground. Ammunition for these guns was 16 inches in diameter and 5 feet long. During the Vietnam War, the Big Southern Butte was used for target practice. (Mile marker 270)

It’s easy to drive through the desert and miss its stories. But if you listen, it will tell you of survival and disappointments, successes and discoveries. INL offers tours to the public. If you’re interested email tours@inl.gov.

Battelle Energy Alliance manages INL for the U.S. Department of Energy’s Office of Nuclear Energy.

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